Unagi Don: The Art of Eel

Unagi Don (鰻丼) represents the pinnacle of Japanese comfort food – lacquered eel glistening with sweet kabayaki sauce over steaming rice. It's rich, indulgent, and deeply satisfying.

A Brief History

Unagi don holds the distinction of being the original donburi, appearing in Edo (Tokyo) in the late 1700s. Legend credits a theater owner who wanted to keep his eel warm during long kabuki performances – serving it over rice in a covered bowl solved the problem deliciously.

The dish quickly became associated with summer, particularly "Doyo no Ushi no Hi" (土用の丑の日), the midsummer Day of the Ox, when eating eel is believed to provide stamina against the summer heat. This tradition dates to the Edo period and remains strong today.

Kanto vs Kansai Style

Japan has two distinct preparation methods:

• Kanto (Tokyo) Style: The eel is butterflied from the back (avoiding the belly, as samurai considered cutting the belly inauspicious), steamed to remove excess fat, then grilled. Results in softer, more delicate texture.
• Kansai (Osaka) Style: Cut from the belly, skipped straight to grilling without steaming. Produces a firmer texture with crispier exterior and richer, fattier flavor.

Both styles baste the eel multiple times with kabayaki sauce – a closely guarded blend of soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar that's often decades old, continually replenished and deepening in flavor.

Signs of Quality Unagi

• Source: Wild eel is increasingly rare and expensive; most is farmed. Japanese-farmed is considered premium, followed by Taiwanese and Chinese. The best restaurants specify origin.
• Preparation: Should be grilled to order. Pre-grilled, reheated eel lacks the caramelized, smoky character of fresh preparation.
• Color: Deep, glossy brown with visible char marks. Pale eel hasn't been properly grilled.
• Texture: Should yield easily to chopsticks while maintaining structure. Mushy eel has been oversteamed; tough eel is undercooked.

The Sansho Essential

Sansho pepper (山椒) is unagi's indispensable partner. This Japanese pepper isn't hot in the chili sense – it's aromatic with a slight citrus note and a tingling numbness. It cuts through the eel's richness, refreshing the palate between bites.

At quality establishments, you'll find sansho ground fresh at the table or in small pots. Sprinkle it judiciously – it should complement, not overpower.

Unagi Don in Singapore

Man Man has established itself as Singapore's premier unagi destination, with charcoal-grilled eel prepared using traditional techniques. Expect queues, especially on weekends and during the summer "Day of the Ox."

Price is a reliable indicator of quality with unagi – eel is expensive to source and prepare properly. Budget options exist but typically use lower-grade eel or shortcuts in preparation that affect the final product significantly.